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The Age Good Food Guide 2017: Full list of award winners

18 Oct

winners

Vittoria Coffee Restaurant of the Year

Ticks every box. The winner does not need to receive three hats but must capture the mood of the city right now and exemplify what it means to be a world-class restaurant.

Brae, Birregurra

Where to start? New accommodation that means no driving and post-lunch playings of Marvin Gaye original pressings on your room’s record player? The fact that Dan Hunter just keeps on marching down the path of deliciousness, channelling his impressive artillery into flavour over show-off moves? How about Simon Freeman and his floor team who carry out seamless service in the most relaxed and engaging way possible, all while you look out over the Birregurra restaurant’s gardens, the aroma of woodsmoke in the air? It’s all part of it and then some. Destination dining doesn’t get better.

Best New Restaurant

The most exciting  opening in the past 12 months, this restaurant  sets the eating agenda and starts conversations. Represents everything that’s fresh, hot and interesting about eating.

Embla, Melbourne

Everyone expected big things from the Kiwi collective behind Carlton’s Town Mouse when they announced a city venue. Instead, we got huge things. And this is just the downstairs bar, with the restaurant proper still to come. Even so, it’s become a magnet for inner-city snackers as much for the heat of the hospitality (all respect to Christian McCabe, an owner who still works the door on freezing nights) as for simpler-than- Town-Mouse but still razor-sharp take on bistro from chef Dave Verheul. That means crisp-skinned chicken, stracciatella lightened with camomile, and veg-based genius in the form of salt-baked celeriac. But you might never even eat when there’s that dark bronze-toned bar to hold up and a hell of a wild wine list to investigate. Bring on phase two. We can’t wait.

Citi Chef of the Year

To acknowledge those with the craft and ability to make a real difference to the way we dine now and in the future.

Aaron Turner, Igni

He was already a gun chef, evidenced by The Age Good Food Guide 2012 Regional Restaurant of the Year award for his much-missed Drysdale restaurant Loam. When it closed he spent a year cooking in Nashville before returning to introduce Geelongsters to spice-licked Nashville-style bird at Hot Chicken Project.

But this is the year Aaron Turner discovered fire. At Igni, which opened in a former electrical goods showroom in Geelong’s backstreets in January, Turner has been cooking entirely over wood – often fruit wood such as apple and olive – making subtle adjustments to dishes daily in response to a fire that changes every day. It’s forced him to rethink his methods, stripping dishes back to their essence to let the produce shine.

“The cooking needs to be a lot more precise. There’s nothing to hide behind,” he says.

In his new digs, Turner has enjoyed experimenting with unfamiliar ingredients brought in by locals, including hamburg parsley root with a flavour like parsnip; sweet, football-shaped cumquats; and burr comb, a kind of free-form honeycomb. The resulting dishes show the chef’s innate ability to read ingredient potential so that even a potato becomes an unbelievable spaghetti-like showstopper. So many plates in the air, rarely a miss among them.

Santa Vittoria Regional Restaurant of the Year

The best outside Melbourne. The winning establishment must provide a restaurant experience comparable to anything in the city but remain uniquely regional.

Igni, Geelong

You could feel a gale of bated breath being exhaled when Igni proved to be not only as empathetic towards ingredients as chef Aaron Turner’s much-missed Loam (native and foraged meets impeccably sourced, be it pigeon and marron or grown-to-order oyster leaves), but in some ways better, with an added focus on cooking over an ironbark-fuelled grill. Add the room in its grey, charcoal and ashen palette and the soothing hospitality stylings of Andrew Hamilton and Joanne Smith (fellow ex-Loamers) and you have one heck of a new destination restaurant for Victoria (and Australia).

Young Chef of the Year

To acknowledge our best and brightest rising star of the kitchen.

Jarrod Di Blasi, Ezard

It’s the tale of slow and steady for Jarrod Di Blasi, the head chef of Ezard. Di Blasi has always believed in the long game, setting sights on working for his Michelin-starred idol, Tom Aikens, in London from the second he started his apprenticeship at 16. There he found his mission – to not only be great, but consistent, humble, produce-worshipping and above all, a teacher, so that the industry has chefs for the future. Back in Australia, Di Blasi has risen through the ranks, becoming head chef at Ezard in 2014. For our panel of judges, industry legends Alla Wolf-Tasker, Frank Camorra and Philippe Mouchel, Di Blasi is a chef they’d hire in a heartbeat.

Food for Good Award

An award celebrating innovation and charity. The winner goes above and beyond to contribute to the community.

StreetSmart Australia

In 2003 former businessman Adam Robinson started StreetSmart Australia, throwing his business and marketing smarts at the growing problem of homelessness. Since then, StreetSmart programs such as DineSmart and CafeSmart have raised more than $2 million for people experiencing or at risk of homelessness, mostly through gold coin donations by diners and cafe-goers.

People’s Choice Award

A reader-driven award that allows the public to name their favourite restaurant. Voted by the people, for the people.

Ezard @ Levantine Hill, Coldstream

They come by helicopter and they come by car to this Fender Katsalidis-designed dining room among the vines. A collaboration between Yarra Valley winemaker Levantine Hill and chef Teage Ezard (Ezard, Gingerboy), it combines a cellar door, tastings in barrel-like booths, and a fine-dining restaurant.

Wine List of the Year

A diverse and high-quality  by-the-glass selection alongside an accessible bottle list that displays a good range of vintages and complements the restaurant’s food and style.

Marion, Fitzroy

In a year when the bar for drinking has never been higher, it’s the drinks list at Andrew McConnell’s Marion that’s come out on top for so easily riding the line between trends and traditional. Whatever your hot take on sulphites or biodynamic horn-burying practices, Marion has you covered, and there’s a lot to be said for that ability to challenge and cosset simultaneously. It’s truly the bar that’s there for its drinkers, staffed by a pro team who can get you where you need to be and serving everything you want to eat…

Baked ham with muntrie berries and roasted vegetables

21 Dec

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Serves 12

1 smoked ham (7 to 9kg net weight)
1 ½ cup muntrie berries

Glaze
½ tsp saltbush
½ tsp native pepper
½ tsp sea parsley
½ tsp bush tomato, ground
50ml orange juice
½ cup honey

Roasted vegetables
6 carrots
6 parsnips
6 onions (small)
½ kg chat potatoes
½ pumpkin, sliced into four

Preheat the to oven 180C. Take the skin off the ham to expose the fat. If you take the ham straight out of the fridge, sit it in warm water for 5 minutes to soften and the skin will peel off easily. Score the fat.

To make the glaze, mix the saltbush, native pepper, sea parsley and bush tomato with the orange juice and sit for 5 minutes to let the herbs swell and release their flavours, then and honey. Brush the ham with the glaze.

Drop the oven temperature to 150C and cook the ham for 1 to 1½ hours, or up to 2 hours depending on the oven. Brush the ham every 15 to 20 minutes.

Sear the vegetables in a nonstick frying pan until they take on a bit of colour. Brush the vegetables with olive oil, place in the oven and they should be ready when the ham is cooked.

If you have any leftovers at the end of the Christmas meal, the ham can be wrapped in a clean wet cloth, placed on a tray, covered with clingwrap and stored in the fridge.

The ham can be sliced off and used in sandwiches, salads, fry-ups and ham and eggs for breakfast. Leave a bit of meat on the bones then freeze them to use later in a hearty pea and ham soup.

Pork chops with apples and black grapes

26 Nov

When placing pork chops in a pan, I often put them in on their edge, holding the chops upright with my kitchen tongs, to get a good golden colour and a little blistered crispness to the rim of fat. I then lay the chops down flat to lightly brown them.

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olive oil 2 tbsp
butter 20g
pork chops 2 (250g each)
small apples 2
apple juice unfiltered 250g
sage leaves 4
black grapes 100g

Pour the oil into a shallow pan set over a moderate heat. Add the butter, then the pork chops, seasoned with salt and black pepper, and the whole apples (halving the fruits if necessary.) Leave the chops to colour lightly on the underside, then turn them over and brown the other side.

Pour in the apple juice, add the sage leaves and continue cooking for 5 to 7 minutes or until the chops are cooked through.

Halve and seed the grapes, then add them to the pan. Remove the chops to a warm plate and cover with foil, to allow them to rest. Turn up the heat to let the apple juice and pork juices reduce to about half their volume. As it reduces, the liquid will become shiny. Serve the chops and apples, spooning the pan juices and grapes over the top.

El gran adiós: José Pizzaro’s final meal

13 Mar

I’d go home, to the house I grew up in. It’s in Talaván, a small village in the Extremadura region of Spain – the house my mother still lives in. That’s where we always have our family gatherings and celebrations.

It’s a very typical Spanish house, overlooking the main square. Every morning, you can watch all the ladies going to buy bread. My parents have never lived anywhere else, and my dream is to build my own home there too, with a big cellar and a vegetable garden nearby, just like my father.

I’d want to bring together everyone who has ever been important to me. I have a lot of friends … There’d be a thousand people! It would be a way of saying thank you.

We’d start with plenty of seafood and Iberico ham, with a nice glass of Tio Pepe. Sherry and ham is such a perfect marriage of flavours.

The smell of my mother’s baby goat stew would fill the house. It would have been cooking slowly all morning, and we would enjoy it with red wine and vegetables from my father’s garden. It was always such a highlight, going down to pick his tomatoes during the summer, or his oranges in the winter.

There’d be cake, and my mother’s creme caramel. And leche frita – fried custard – with a glass of my favourite Pedro Ximenez from Fernando de Castilla. It’s a really sweet wine, thick with raisins, like Christmas pudding in a glass. After that I’d have a glass of cava, and a big gin and tonic!

If it were the season though, I’d be just as happy with a plate of oranges, dressed with olive oil. We love really simple things. My father would often just have a bunch of mint in a vase near the table, a bowl of quince and some orange blossom, filling the house with beautiful aromas.
Leche frita

While the name translates as “fried milk”, it’s actually a kind of sweet custard fritter, a nibble to eat at the end of a meal or with tea or coffee. It is a dish that is very close to my heart, as my mum makes it whenever there is something to celebrate or friends have dropped in for a visit.

Serves 4 to 6
For the custard
1 litre whole milk
Peel of ½ orange
Peel of ½ lemon
1 cinnamon stick
60g plain flour
80g cornflour
140g caster sugar
4 large egg yolks

To coat and fry
100g plain flour
2 eggs, beaten
150ml extra virgin olive oil

To serve
100g caster sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon, or to taste

1 Put the milk, both peels and the cinnamon into a non-stick pan and heat until very hot, but not boiling. Cook for about 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and remove the cinnamon and citrus peels.

2 Beat the flours, sugar and egg yolks together in a bowl. Gradually add the hot milk, beating continuously. Once you have a thick sauce, scrape this back into the saucepan and place it over a medium heat to cook for 10 minutes. Stir regularly. You will end up with a very thick custard. Use a spatula to smooth the custard on to a baking tray to a thickness of 2cm. Leave to cool in the fridge.

3 Put the flour and eggs into separate bowls. Cut the custard into 3cm squares and roll each cube in the flour, dusting off the excess, and then dunk it in the egg. Heat enough oil in a heavy frying pan to submerge the custard cubes. Once the oil starts to shimmer, cook the squares for 1 minute until pale gold, in batches, and drain on kitchen paper. Mix the sugar and cinnamon together and dust them thoroughly.

Mental exercises, lifestyle, diet and supplements can increase your IQ

16 Nov

IQ stands for Intelligence Quotient. Contrary to common misconception, IQ does not measure a person’s actual intelligence, but rather is measurement of one’s problem solving abilities. It has long been thought that a person’s IQ remains fairly stable from very early in life. However, new studies have found just the opposite, indicating that IQ can be increased by as much as 20% or more with proper diet, lifestyle, mental exercises and more.

In a new study published this month in the journal Nature, researchers found that during adolescence, a fifth of children can gain or lose as many as 20 points in IQ. The study, “Verbal and non-verbal intelligence changes in the teenage brain”, also found that IQ improvement corresponded to actual structural changes in the brain. Children who had an increase in IQ during adolescence also had an increase in the density and volume of gray matter in the brain.

Study co-author Sue Ramsden indicated that “late developer(s) can catch up”. She likened the brain changes to changes in a child’s physical fitness over the teenage years and compared increasing IQ to a couch-potato kid joining a sports team and becoming athletic several years later.

Other studies have indicated that IQ can also be improved in adults. In 2008, a study was published which was pretty much a game changer for research on IQ. The study, titled “Building Fluid Intelligence with Training on Working Memory”, demonstrated that it might actually be possible to increase IQ to a significant degree through training.

Learning and exercising the brain are major ways to increase IQ. This can be as simple as solving puzzles, reading stimulating books, learning a new language or learning how to perform a new task. Some other good brain boosting suggestions are:

*Lead an active lifestyle and exercise regularly
*Have an active social life
*Get involved in new activities and hobbies
*Write – including writing with your opposite hand
*Avoid and manage stress
*Minimize television watching
*Play challenging video games
*Don’t smoke
*Drink in moderation
*Avoid refined sugar and SADS processed food items
*Avoid water with fluoride
*Avoid vaccinations and mainstream medications

Nutrition can be vital in increasing IQ and maintaining healthy brain function. Just like other organs, the brain needs proper nutrition to develop and function properly. Brain performance may be greatly improved through eating the right kinds of foods as well as supplementing to help address any deficiencies, which may be affecting thinking ability and behavior.